Hot Pavement and Dog Paws: How to Protect Paw Pads in Summer

In summer, we think of sunscreen, a hat and a water bottle for ourselves, but we often forget that our dog walks barefoot on surfaces that can reach brutal temperatures. Asphalt, sand and even some paving slabs can cause real burns to the paw pads, sometimes in less than a minute of exposure. The good news: protecting your dog’s paws in summer mostly comes down to simple reflexes and a bit of good gear. Here’s how to anticipate the danger, choose the right balm or boots, and recognize the warning signs.

👉 Not sure if the ground is safe today? Check the pavement and heat risk from your location with our free Is it too hot for your dog? tool.

This article is for information only and does not replace advice from a veterinarian.

Why is hot ground dangerous for paw pads?

Paw pads are thick, tough skin, but they are not immune to heat. Under the sun, dark and mineral surfaces absorb and release far more heat than the air temperature suggests. When the air is at 30 °C (86 °F), exposed asphalt can exceed 50 °C (122 °F) — hot enough to damage skin in just a few dozen seconds.

Several surfaces are particularly treacherous:

• asphalt and blacktop, especially dark and in full sun;
• beach sand during the hot hours;
• paving slabs, concrete and metal (footbridges, manhole covers, boats);
• dark gravel and heat-reflecting rocks in the mountains.

The risk is higher for dogs whose pads aren’t “toughened up”: puppies, apartment dogs unused to rough ground, or dogs that live mostly on soft surfaces. Conversely, a dog that walks a lot develops thicker pads, but that doesn’t make it invulnerable to thermal burns.

How to tell if the ground is too hot: the 7-second test

It’s the simplest, most reliable reflex. Before heading out, place the back of your hand (more sensitive than the palm) flat on the ground for seven seconds. If you can’t hold it without discomfort, your dog can’t either: postpone the outing or change your route.

A few pointers for doing it right:

1. Test the actual surface you’ll be walking on (asphalt, sand, slabs), not the grass next to it.
2. Do the test at the sunniest spot of the route.
3. Repeat it if you change surfaces during the walk.
4. Remember that the ground stays scorching long after the sun goes behind a cloud.

In practice, the best way to avoid the problem is still to shift your schedule: walks early in the morning and after sunset, once the ground has had time to cool. Seek shade, walk on grass and dirt paths, and avoid long waits on asphalt. Heat management isn’t just about paws, either: also keep in mind the far more serious risk of heatstroke.

Should I apply a balm to the paw pads?

Paw balm is a cosmetic product that moisturizes, softens and forms a protective film on the skin. It has two distinct uses that shouldn’t be confused: prevention/protection before an outing on harsh terrain, and repair of a dry, cracked or irritated pad.

For ingredients, favor simple, non-toxic balms (the dog will end up licking its paws sooner or later):

• plant waxes and butters (beeswax, shea butter) for the protective film;
• vegetable oils (coconut, olive) for moisture;
• no harsh fragrance, no dyes or irritating preservatives.

For application:

1. Clean and thoroughly dry the pads, including the space between the toes.
2. Apply a thin layer while massaging, ideally in the evening at rest so it can soak in.
3. Keep the dog busy for a few minutes so it doesn’t lick right away.
4. For prevention before an outing, let it dry slightly so the dog doesn’t slip.

Keep in mind: a balm protects against friction and dryness, but it does not protect against scorching ground. On 50 °C (122 °F) asphalt, only avoidance (timing, shade) or a true physical barrier (a boot) makes the difference. If a pad is clearly red, swollen or oozing, has a blister, or the dog is limping, this is no longer a cosmetic matter: see a veterinarian.

Do boots really protect against heat?

Boots create a physical barrier between the pad and the ground. They’re designed above all for sharp or abrasive terrain (rocks, gravel, mountain trails) and for winter cold, but they can also limit direct contact with a hot surface. One caveat: a closed, thick boot can make the paw sweat and hinder the dog’s ability to shed body heat, especially in high temperatures. So they never replace adjusting your outing times.

The criteria that matter when choosing:

• size: measure the paw while it bears weight (width and length) and follow the manufacturer’s guide — it’s the most important point;
• grip on the paw: a fastening system and support strap that keep the boot from falling off in motion;
• the sole: non-slip and flexible enough not to hinder the gait;
• breathability: a trade-off to find, especially in summer;
• ease of putting on and cleaning.

Criterion	Protective balm	Boots
Protects against scorching ground	No	Partially (barrier)
Protects against sharp terrain	No	Yes
Moisturizes / repairs	Yes	No
Habituation needed	Very little	Often long
Risk of paw overheating	None	Possible if too closed
Best for	Upkeep, dryness prevention	Hiking, abrasive ground

Habituation is often the neglected step: many dogs walk “like robots” the first few times. Work in very short sessions at home, reward, then extend gradually. To choose and fit this kind of gear across the seasons, our guide to dog coats and boots for every weather covers measuring and training. As a common example for hiking, Ruffwear Grip Trex boots are designed for technical terrain; as always, check the sizing on the official guide rather than guessing from your dog’s build.

How do I care for paw pads day to day in summer?

A healthy pad withstands wear better. Summer upkeep is about keeping the skin supple and clean, and spotting small injuries quickly before they get worse.

The right reflexes:

• rinse the paws after the beach (sand and salt dry out and irritate);
• check for foxtails, glass shards or small stones between the toes;
• keep the hair between the pads short to limit debris buildup;
• moisturize regularly with a balm if the pads are dry or rough;
• avoid scorching surfaces rather than counting on the “toughness” of the paws.

Hydration also works from the inside: a well-hydrated dog in good general health has more resilient skin. Make sure fresh water is available at all times, especially when traveling and on long outings.

For year-round pad care and maintenance beyond the summer context, see our complete advice on protecting your dog’s paw pads.

What signs should alert you?

Paw pads talk: a dog doesn’t always complain openly, and a paw problem often shows in behavior before it’s visible. Watch in particular for:

• limping or reluctance to walk, especially on hard surfaces;
• insistent licking or chewing of one paw;
• a pad that’s red, swollen, abnormally dark or peeling;
• a blister, a wound, bleeding or oozing;
• holding a paw up, or constantly seeking shade and grass.

Faced with burned pads, the first steps are to move the dog away from the heat source, rinse gently with cool (not ice-cold) water and prevent licking. But a burn, a wound that won’t dry, a peeling pad or a dog that’s clearly limping warrant a veterinary visit without delay: these injuries can get infected and are painful. When in doubt, it’s better to have the paw examined than to wait.

Sources

• American Veterinary Medical Association — Hot weather safety for pets
• ASPCA — Hot weather safety tips
• The Kennel Club — Walking your dog in hot weather
• RSPCA — Caring for your dog in summer