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Dog Coats and Boots: Protecting Your Dog in Any Weather

Camille Roussel 16 July 2026

chocolate labrador retriever puppy on snow covered ground during daytime
Photo: Rachel Alexis on Unsplash

Should you really dress your dog? It’s a debated question, and the answer depends a lot on your dog and the weather. A husky doesn’t have the same needs as a whippet. Chosen well, a coat and boots aren’t fashion accessories but genuine comfort and protection tools. Here’s how to decide, measure and outfit your dog for the conditions.

Does every dog need a coat?

No — a coat is only useful for certain dogs. Nordic breeds with a dense double coat, like the husky or the Bernese mountain dog, are naturally well insulated and generally don’t need an extra layer. Several profiles, however, benefit from a coat in very cold weather.

Dogs that benefit most:

  • small breeds, close to the ground, which lose heat quickly;
  • short-haired dogs or dogs without an undercoat (sighthounds, some terriers);
  • senior or convalescent dogs, more sensitive to cold;
  • puppies, whose thermoregulation is still immature;
  • lean or low-activity dogs during slow-paced outings.

Watch your dog: shivering, a hunched back, lifted paws or refusing to walk are all signs they’re cold.

How do I choose the right coat size and cut?

The coat should cover the back from the withers to the base of the tail and protect the belly, without restricting movement. Too short, and it leaves the lower back exposed; too tight, and it hampers walking; too loose, and it slides around and loses its purpose.

To measure and fit:

  1. Measure the back length, from the withers (base of the neck) to the base of the tail.
  2. Measure the chest girth at the widest point behind the front legs.
  3. Measure the neck circumference.
  4. Compare with the manufacturer’s size chart, prioritizing back length.
  5. Check that the legs move freely and nothing rubs under the armpits.

A good coat goes on and comes off easily, without contortions that would stress the dog.

Winter coat or raincoat: which one?

It depends on the main threat: dry cold or rain. A warm, lined or padded coat fights the cold but doesn’t necessarily keep water out. A water-repellent raincoat keeps the dog dry in the rain but provides little insulation. For cold, wet regions, some models combine both.

  • Warm coat: insulating lining, ideal in cold, dry weather or for slow-paced outings.
  • Raincoat: water-repellent fabric, perfect in rain and slushy snow.
  • Hybrid model: insulation + water repellency, versatile in the mountains or harsh climates.

For winter outings at altitude, think of this choice as part of your full setup: see our guide to mountain vacations with a dog.

What are dog boots for?

Boots protect paw pads from ground hazards, in winter and summer alike. In winter, road salt irritates and dries out the pads, snow packs between the toes, and ice can cut. In summer, sun-baked pavement and sand can burn paw pads in seconds.

They’re especially useful:

  • on salted city sidewalks in winter;
  • when hiking on snow, ice or sharp terrain;
  • on scorching pavement during hot hours (test with the back of your hand);
  • to protect an already injured pad while it heals.

Boots aren’t right for every dog: some don’t tolerate them, and protective balms exist as an alternative. For day-to-day pad care, see our advice on protecting your dog’s paw pads.

How do I get my dog used to wearing a coat or boots?

Get them used to it in short, always-rewarded steps. A dog discovering a garment may freeze, scratch at it or walk oddly — especially with boots.

  1. Show the item, let the dog sniff it, then reward.
  2. Put it on for a few seconds at home, in a calm setting, then take it off.
  3. Gradually extend the duration, pairing it with treats and play.
  4. For boots, start with one paw, then add the others.
  5. Take short walks first before long outings.

Never force it: a stressed dog will lastingly associate the gear with a bad experience.

Which materials and features should I look for?

Choose breathable, easy-to-wash materials with reflective strips. A coat that traps moisture or irritates the skin will quickly be rejected. The finishing details matter as much as the cut.

  • water-repellent, breathable, quick-drying fabric;
  • soft lining that doesn’t cause chafing;
  • simple closures (velcro, clips) that are easy to handle;
  • reflective strips for visibility in winter, when it gets dark early.

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Frequently asked questions

How do I know if my dog is cold and needs a coat?

Watch their behavior: shivering, a hunched back, lifted paws, refusing to walk or seeking warmth all mean they're cold. Small dogs, short-haired breeds, puppies and senior dogs are the most sensitive. Nordic breeds with a dense double coat, on the other hand, generally don't need one.

Are dog boots actually useful or just a gimmick?

They're genuinely useful in specific situations: road salt, packed snow, sharp terrain or scorching summer pavement. Outside those contexts, they're not essential. Some dogs don't tolerate them well, and a protective paw balm can be an alternative.

How do I measure my dog for the right coat size?

Measure the back length from the withers to the base of the tail, the chest girth behind the front legs, and the neck circumference. Compare these measurements to the manufacturer's size chart, prioritizing back length. The coat should cover the back without restricting movement.

How do I test whether the ground is too hot for my dog's paws?

Press the back of your hand against the pavement for about five to seven seconds: if it's too hot for your skin, it's too hot for your dog's paw pads. In that case, walk during the cooler hours, stay in the shade, or use boots.

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